The Mountain ACademy Team | Photos Credit: David Ravanel
Bright green rice patties, dirt changing from red to a deep purple, a huge limestone quarry over and very steep routes...A full day drive from Marrakech , 3 hours of walking and several Berber bridges later, we arrive in Taghia, for the 5th stage of the Mountain Academy (8th-17th April).
The famous Berber bridges | Photos Credit: David Ravanel
During 10 days, the candidates were able to climb a wide variety of routes: sometimes hard moves on bolts through a steep compact part of wall, sometimes on classical protection with nuts and camelots in corners, cracks, or chimneys and sometimes in artificial climbing through heavy roofs.
The climbing here is very demanding: even the easiest routes demand grade 6 and mental force! Baraka, a classic 680 meters route in the west face of the Oujdad. The "Cascade" is famous for its superb line. Le Rêve d'Aïcha in the Paroi des Sources area, The Canyon Apache...All these were amazing routes but quite steep .Our young guns were a bit apprehensive of not being able to reach the summit, but everyone pushed their limits, and at the end of the week, although exhausted they were really proud of what they did.
Patricia from Germany. | Photos Credit: David Ravanel
Ferran on his ascent. | Photos Credit: David Ravanel
As Corne (Holland) told us: "Until the 6th pitch of The Canyon Apache everything went pretty smoothly, very nice moves on amazing rock. But in this pitch, all the moves were delicate yet powerful at the same time. In my mind I fought big battles to stay calm and focused, while hanging from my fingertips 200m above the roaring river in the canyon...When I finally reached the belay I was completely exhausted but really satisfied."
Sana from Serbia. | Photos Credit: David Ravanel
The only disadvantage: the (very!) sharp Taghia rocks left them no chance to keep skin on their fingers...As Benjamin, our Austrian candidate, explained, while washing the blood from his hands: "The climbing here is so sharp that just after a few days, my hands look like they were put in a mixer."
Taghia seen from the top. | Photos Credit: David Ravanel
The aim of the 10 days in Taghia was not only about climbing, but also to bring these young climbers from all over Europe to a completely different culture, different way of life, and different world.
"After a full week of climbing I'm feeling very tired and exhausted, my face is burned from the sun, my hair looks like dreadlocks, there is dirt under my nails, the skin is scratched, my joints of foot ankle and tooth hurt, all my clothes are dirty, my nose is running, my climbing shoes are finished from the sharp rock. But in my eyes you will find that shining if you ask me about Taghia. A smile will rise in my face, when I will think back of lived time in Taghia, the small Berber village at the end of the world. I won't forget the local people. They have something special, especially the kids. I won't forget the football matches in the afternoon, the strange market in Zaouiat, the non understandable Berber language...The time out in Taghia let us find back to the roots but it is as you're looking back 100 years ago. You can take your impressions with you, import useful habits like taking your time, friendliness or lucky mood, but it's just a timeout. On Monday least you have to be fully adapted to our society, there's no way back. But you can start more relaxed and take it easy if the world is too annoying to you.", Patricia (Germany) noticed.
Ferran (Spain) summarized the adventure: "It was a way for us to change a little bit our lives and to open our minds..."
Inch'allah.
...And the descent. | Photos Credit: David Ravanel
Next (and Final!) stage: 25th June - 5th July - alpinism. Mont Blanc massif.
Athletes: Corne Brower (NL), Ferran Martinez (SP), Patricia Schanne (DE), Jiri Novak (CZ), Tito Arosio (IT), Sana Zulic (Serbia), Benjamin Bickel (Austria).
Guides: Seb Foissac, Neil Brody, Kurt Asner, Remi Laborde, Christian Ravier.
MHW Staff: Fred Meynent, Anne-Cécile Charreyre, Jérôme Blanc-Gras
Cameraman: Bertrand Delapierre
Photographer: David Ravanel
Routes climbs:
Paroi des Sources area:
Belle et Berbère: TD+ / Le Rêve d'Aïcha:T
Ifrig area:
Canyon Apache: ED- / Dièdre Pikort: ED / Princesse Mismir: ED-
Taoujdad west face:
Au nome de la réforme : ED- / A boire ou je tue le chien : ED-
Oujdad:
La Mano del Maroc : ABO / Baraka : ED-
Paroi de la cascade area:
Haben oder sein : ED-
Akka n'Tazarte:
Soyez forts, mangez du porc ! : ED
